March/April, 2025
Day 1
Another trip to scout hotels, routes, places of interest and eateries. Starting from Tagaytay I headed north via CALAX, SLEX, Skywayand NLEX traveling to my overnight destination somewhere in Zambales. I could have taken the freeway all the way to Subic but instead I like to take a slight detour and exit NLEX at San Fernando and ride up the Mega Dike Access Road. I really enjoy this road; interesting scenery, along a long, straight, fast road. My usual stop at the Lalam Dike Bistro was closed due to a family bereavement so I traveled on for a short time and found another hidden gem for lunch.
Excellent food and lovely relaxing surroundings.
Once rested and with my belly full I set off to join the SCTEX freeway, riding though Subic Freeport to my final destination for the evening at the eco-resort of Kwentong Dagat, a beautiful, quite, rustic retreat by the sea.
Day 2
Started with a delicious breakfast of snow fish and vegetables washed down with two glasses of fresh kiwi juice, then packed up my stuff and continued my journey north up the coast of Zambales. No matter how many times I pass through this volcanic landscape I am always in awe of it. The bridges over the mighty Lahars provide a tiny glimpse into the power and destructive forces unleashed by the 1991 eruption of Mt Pinatubo.
My first stop was for an ice coffee at the Kopi Kubo. I don’t normally drink iced coffee but this particular morning was so hot I couldn’t resist. The coffee was so good I ordered a second cup and soaked up the peaceful, relaxing ambience of this lovely little cafe.
Next stop lunch. This place is difficult to find and to be honest it has seen better days, but it is worth a visit just for the location. The Deck is a small little cafe hidden just off the main road. It is well sign-posted off the road but not easy to find after that, but the search is well worth it. I was the only person there and the owner opened the cafe just for me. She made me a delicious Calamari meal followed by a refreshing Halo-Halo, which I enjoyed as I relaxed and soaked-in the surrounding view of the river.
Fully refreshed, I continued on to Alaminos and visited my friend Stephen John Carson at The Red Baron just a stone’s throw away from Alaminos. See my previous blog re. this establishment.
My accommodation for the evening was at Rustic Crown Hotel in Alaminos which is conveniently located for Hundred Island Tours and the restaurants and cafes of Alaminos. The room rate included breakfast, but because I intended to leave early the following morning well before breakfast is served, the hotel staff agreed to let me have my ‘free’ breakfast that evening.
Day 3
A long day in the saddle awaited me on day 3. My final destination of Sagada was 270km away which isn’t a great distance, but most of the journey was spent on the twisty, slow mountain roads which meant a good 7 hours in the saddle. The road out of Alaminos heading east is fast and in very good condition. At Santo Tomas I left the coast road and climbed up to Baguio via Kennon Road. It was a beautiful sunny morning and the climb up the hill is both exhilarating and awe-inspiring. The natural beauty of the landscape can be a little distracting so complete concentration is required to navigate the steep twists and switch-back bends.
I decided not to stop in Baguio but instead to push on through into the Mountain Province towards Sagada. The weather was starting to close in and I wanted to get as many kilometers under my belt as possible before stopping to eat.
Lunch was at The Northern Coffee House Atok, A very nice, new, modern cafe, perched at the top of the mountains.
Just as I finished my lunch the heavens opened and it poured down with rain. I had no choice but to continue on. As I progressed the weather got worse and worse. I had wet weather gear but my gloves were soaking wet and my hands shaking with the cold. It was only weeks later that I remembered I had heated grips on my bike – I’d never need to use them before and forgot I had them at my disposal – Doh!
I arrived at my destination, Sagada Heritage Village well after sundown. I would not advise this road for anyone in the dark. The road up to the Village is very steep, consisting of blind, switch-back bends, one after the other. At times it was impossible to see which way the road turned until I was almost upon it.
Needless to say I was very happy to arrive at the accommodation. The Sagada Heritage Village is well worth the difficult ride. Accommodation is wooden ‘huts’ raised on wooden supports. Under each ‘hut’ are tables and chairs surrounding an open fire. The silence is deafening; the star-scape blinding. This is a very special place.
Day 4
A lazy start to the day. A traditional Filipino breakfast served to my hut and enjoyed outside in the clean, fresh mountain air.
I was tempted to stay here for another night but the Banaue Rice Terraces beckoned me. My final destination for the day was Santiago. The day started in glorious sunshine but as I climbed higher towards and Rice Terrances I was engulfed by cloud which added to the mystique of the surroundings. The road through the Terrances is in excellent condition as can be seen in this video…..
My accommodation for the evening was the Zen Hotel, Santiago in the province of Isabella.
Day 5
A relatively short ride today, only 170km from Santiago to Baler, but it entails traveling one of my favorite roads through the Sierra Madre Mountain range. The road is in good condition and the scenery exquisite. Not a straight road in sight. I passed through a number of Aeta villages (the Aeta are one of the indigenous peoples of the Philippines) The kids are always friendly and curious whenever a big bike passes so I usually stop to take some photos and give the kids a few coins.
Once down from the Sierra Madre I joined the coast road and headed west towards Baler. The weather was fine, the scenery gorgeous and all was well with the world.
My accommodation for the night was the Backdoor Villas in Baler. A cosy, small, boutique hotel just one road back from the main beach and next to my favorite restaurant.. the Yellowfin, where I enjoyed a few cold beers and a sumptuous grilled tuna.
Day 6
The long ride home. 310km and 7+ hours in the saddle, but it was worth it. I sought out some different, interesting and varied places to stay, to eat and to explore. Till next time…..
